surfing

  • Oct
    2021
    17
    2021 / Oct / 17

    Storm chase mission 3

    My throat was tight. My breath shallow. My eyes stung from staring hard at the horizon. We were told to look for shadows in the water or for a fin,…

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  • Jun
    2020
    23
    2020 / Jun / 23

    365

    There are four major types of waves. Rolling waves are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer because they break in a stable pattern. Dumping waves are more unpredictable…

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  • Mar
    2019
    26
    2019 / Mar / 26

    Mavericks

    When I go to describe something as remarkable as what I saw that day, I could only say it was a place of dreams. The water is crystalline clear, a mixture of opalescent colors and frosted with white tips….

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  • Mar
    2019
    22
    2019 / Mar / 22

    Chasing Waves

    You are going to fall in the water. Your head will go under. Depending on how big a wave you fall on, it’ll be like falling into a cross between a cement mixer and a fast flowing river….

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